Time Out Mercado da Ribeira, Cais do Sodré
The new food court at Mercado da Ribeira – Lisbon’s biggest fresh food market – has become a firm favourite among Lisboans. The first permanent foodie venture for Time Out, the market hosts a total of 35 kiosks – all branded in the same smart black and white signage and selling regional specialities, The original fish, fruit and vegetable stalls on the other side of the huge 19th century building still sell their wares every day, except Sunday, until lunchtime.
Cervejaria Ramiro, Intendente
Nicknamed the seafood temple, Ramiro is a historic Lisbon institution, well discovered by tourists but still loved by locals. This is the place to come to indulge in the country’s fantastic seafood Get there early to avoid queuing, although the staff do their best to keep hungry punters happy, offering drinks to those standing in line.
Decadente, Bairro Alto
The Independente Hostel & Suites is one of the city’s impressive crop of stylish hostels and the Decadente is its in-house restaurant, an atmospheric, funky space that appeals as much, if not more, to locals and non-guests as it does to the budget-conscious residents.
Cantinho do Avillez, Chiado
José Avillez is one of Portugal’s most famous chefs, a trailblazer in the same mould as Ferran Adrià and Heston Blumenthal, and owner of Michelin-starred Belcanto and the new Mini Bar, a bar with gourmet, experimental canapés. Cantinho do Avillez, his bistro, is a small, simple room embellished with industrial chic features – factory lights and a concrete floor.
Tágide Wine and Tapas Bar, Chiado
This fabulous tapas bar is in upmarket Chiado, below the famous restaurant of the same name. There are two lunch options: one course for €8.50 or three for €12.50, both including a glass of wine and coffee. Set in an elegant room of glossy dark wood and shelves lined with Portuguese wines, overlooking the town hall, it’s a place to linger.
A modern take on the seafood restaurant, SeaMe has solid wooden tables, waiting staff in grey Mao-style jackets, waitresses sporting I’m a Fish addict T-shirts, and a menu sprinkled with slogans … ‘Good things come to those who wait’, and so on. Naff wording aside, SeaMe offers an Asian-inspired menu that makes an interesting change from the classics seen in most other restaurants.
Atira-te ao Rio, Cacilhas
Lisbon is a city of spectacular views. Numerous miradors, rooftop terraces and historic towers provide panoramas. But if you want to see the whole city stretched out along the river bank you need to cross the Tagus to the south bank. Ferries run from Cais do Sodré to Cacilhas four times an hour until 1.20am. A short walk alongside abandoned riverside warehouses brings you to this little restaurant where a few tables and chairs lit by torches are set along the water’s edge.